As the field of medical hair restoration continues advancing and evolving, hair loss sufferers look toward new, cutting edge clinics and corporations for faster, more effective, and less invasive hair loss treatments. In various but not all cases, the breakthroughs achieved through oral medications and topical solutions (seen in proven hair loss treatments like Rogaine (minoxidil) and Propecia (finasteride) are fantastic.  Thus, hair restoration entities continue striving to create the next advancement and bring the world closer to a “hair loss cure.” However, for each hair restoration treatment that’s proven safe, effective, and efficient, it seems as if a dozen others are rejected for being unproven, inefficient, or unsafe.

For this reason, it’s always advantageous to thoroughly research the newest hair loss solutions and determine whether they are safe and effective, or if they fail to live up to the high expectations set by the current gold standard treatments such as proven solutions Propecia and Rogaine.   Below, we evaluate whether Spectral.DNC, a topical solution created by Divine Skin Laboratories (DS Laboratories) can help stop hair loss and regrow hair.

Spectral.DNC is a topical treatment formulated by DS Laboratories which claims its “the world’s most effective topical hair loss treatment.” But can Spectral.DNC live up to these lofty claims and offer a more effective solution, or will it suffer the fate of many therapies before it and fail to gain the approval of the hair restoration patient community?

According to DS Laboratories, Spectral.DNC is applied (as an atomized mist or liquid) to the balding scalp twice daily, once in the morning and once at night. Along with a series of vitamins and herbal supplements (herbal extracts, copper peptides, and a vitamin complex), the active ingredients in Spectral. DNC are 5% minoxidil, Aminexil (SP94), and Retinol. Since minoxidil is also the proven, active ingredient in topical Rogaine, Divine Skin utilizes a frequently asked questions feature on its website to explain how Spectral.DNC is different and more effective than minoxidil. According to Divine Skin, it’s the two other active ingredients – Aminexil and Retinol that make Spectral.DNC more effective than Rogaine.

Aminexil (or Aminexil SP94) is a compound currently featured as an active ingredient in a line of healthy hair shampoos by L’Oreal. Aminexil is allegedly helpful in the treatment of perifollicular fibrosis – a pre-mature aging of hair shafts caused by inflammation and an overproduction of collagen proteins. It’s worth noting that while some reputable sources have researched its connection to perifollicular fibrosis, it hasn’t been conclusively linked to hair loss (especially androgenic alopecia hair loss), nor is Aminexil proven to treat perifollicular fibrosis. Furthermore, Aminexil is not recognized or approved by the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as a treatment for any type of hair loss.

DS Laboratories indirectly counters these statements by sharing the results of a “worldwide” study which demonstrated an 8% increase in hair growth and a 6% increase in hair shaft diameter in hair loss sufferers using Aminexil (compared to a placebo group). This study however, is not without its limitations.  This study was conducted in 1994, only contained 130 participants, lasted for 42 days, and doesn’t appear to be published in any sort of peer reviewed publication. Because of this, it’s difficult to evaluate whether or not the addition of Aminexil as an improvement over simple 5% minoxidil. But what about the Retinol?

Retinol (and its derivatives) is a form of Vitamin A, often used in medical dermatology for maintaining healthy skin and treating specific types of acne. Allegedly, certain forms of Retinol act as hair restoration drugs (after periods of long term usage) by preventing hair loss hormones from binding to target receptors and killing healthy hair follicles. While evidence of these claims was difficult to find, many Retinol users claim that the drug is harsh on skin and utilizing it in the scalp would cause irritation and require small, likely ineffective dosages. Much like Aminexil, there’s no solid evidence to suggest that Retinol makes Spectral.DNC a more effective hair loss solution than Rogaine or other minoxidil related products. Interestingly enough, while copper peptidesare listed as in inactive ingredient, research supports that copper peptides may play a role in transforming thin vellus hairs into thicker terminal hairs, increasing follicular size, and regenerating healthy scalp skin.  However, because copper peptides aren’t listed as an official “active ingredient” by DS Laboratories nor do we know its concentration, it’s difficult to gauge its efficacy within Spectral.DNC.

The only proven and FDA approved ingredient in Spectral.DNC is 5% minoxidil. While minoxidil is safe and efficient, it’s unclear what the additional ingredients in Spectral.DNC may actually accomplish. Furthermore, the cost of Spectral.DNC runs between $35.00 and $45.00 for a month supply, compared to around $ 25.00 for a three month supply of generic 5% minoxidil.  According to DS Laboratories, the only known side effects revolve around minoxidil (which are no different than those associated with Rogaine).  Although minoxidil is relatively safe and effective, it’s been used as a hair loss treatment for decades.

Those hair loss sufferers considering using Spectral.DNC as a treatment for thinning hair can feel confident knowing that they will, at the very least, obtain similar results to using minoxidil 5%.  Until the other active ingredients are peer reviewed, whether or not Spectral.DNC is more effective than Rogaine 5% is mostly conjecture.

The Era of the big Wig

Soon after the Middle Ages wigs became popular for women. Then in the 1600’s the flamboyant and incredibly vain King Louis XIV of France lost his hair from a severe illness and took to wearing gigantic wigs thus setting the fashion for most men of his day.

These enormous creations featured such items as cages with live birds and could weigh up to 20 lbs.!

By the 1700’s England made another contribution to bad hair loss concealers. This was the age of the long, curly, and powered wigs. Even today, English judges and lawyers continue this practice. Thus the expression for those in authority – “Big Wigs.”

The“Snake oil” Years

The early 1800’s is renowned in hair loss circles as the age of the con men. There were hundreds of so-called “hair loss solutions” and many lasted well into the late 1900’s.

These treatments were marketed by fast-talking “doctors,” skilled only in bravery and possessing nerves of steel considering they were conning hardened cowboys and outlaws!

The salesmen hawked their products from the safety of their side shows and “Wild West” spectaculars. They used endless tricks to get people to buy their products, including rubbing grease into their hair to make it look thicker.

The “Modern” Era of Hair Loss Solutions

During the past several decades, superstition, old wives tales, and guess work has gradually been replaced by science.

In 1939, a Japanese dermatologist, Dr. Okuda, published a revolutionary method in a Japanese medical journal that would lay the ground work for modern hair transplantation.

This method involved using hair transplant grafts to correct lost hair from various areas, including the scalp, eyebrow, and moustache areas. However, this study didn’t make an impact in the Western Hemisphere due to the interruption of World War II.

Hair transplants are born.

In the late 50’s one physician in particular, Dr. Norman Orentriech, began to experiment with the idea of relocating or transplanting the hair on the back and sides of the head to the balding areas.

Dr. Orentriech’s experiments showed that when bald resistant hairs from the back and sides of the head were relocated, they maintained their bald resistant genetic characteristic regardless of where they were transplanted.

This principle, known as “Donor Dominance”, established that hair could be transplanted from the bald resistant donor areas to the balding areas and continues to grow for a life time. This laid the foundation for modern hair transplantation.

During the 60’s and 70’s surgical hair restoration grew in popularity. However, the standard procedure used large grafts that were removed by round punches and often contained many hairs.

Completed Result after Multiple Sessions of Large Grafts

This now outdated technique could achieve a full look if a patient completed all planned sessions. However, a patient was typically limited in the manner they could style their hair.

Patients who stopped short of completing all planned sessions were left with hair loss solutions that looked obvious and unnatural.

Such uncompleted hair restoration results are some times referred to as “barbie doll hair” or “corn rows”.

Many who have had these older techniques now refine or complete their hair transplants with today’s very refined techniques to achieve a natural look that they can style in any manner.

From big wigs to surgical hair restoration

The Era of the big Wig

Soon after the Middle Ages wigs became popular for women. Then in the 1600’s the flamboyant and incredibly vain King Louis XIV of France lost his hair from a severe illness and took to wearing gigantic wigs thus setting the fashion for most men of his day.

These enormous creations featured such items as cages with live birds and could weigh up to 20 lbs.!

By the 1700’s England made another contribution to bad hair loss concealers. This was the age of the long, curly, and powered wigs. Even today, English judges and lawyers continue this practice. Thus the expression for those in authority – “Big Wigs.”

The“Snake oil” Years

The early 1800’s is renowned in hair loss circles as the age of the con men. There were hundreds of so-called “hair loss solutions” and many lasted well into the late 1900’s.

These treatments were marketed by fast-talking “doctors,” skilled only in bravery and possessing nerves of steel considering they were conning hardened cowboys and outlaws!

The salesmen hawked their products from the safety of their side shows and “Wild West” spectaculars. They used endless tricks to get people to buy their products, including rubbing grease into their hair to make it look thicker.

The “Modern” Era of Hair Loss Solutions

During the past several decades, superstition, old wives tales, and guess work has gradually been replaced by science.

In 1939, a Japanese dermatologist, Dr. Okuda, published a revolutionary method in a Japanese medical journal that would lay the ground work for modern hair transplantation.

This method involved using hair transplant grafts to correct lost hair from various areas, including the scalp, eyebrow, and moustache areas. However, this study didn’t make an impact in the Western Hemisphere due to the interruption of World War II.

Hair transplants are born.

In the late 50’s one physician in particular, Dr. Norman Orentriech, began to experiment with the idea of relocating or transplanting the hair on the back and sides of the head to the balding areas.

Dr. Orentriech’s experiments showed that when bald resistant hairs from the back and sides of the head were relocated, they maintained their bald resistant genetic characteristic regardless of where they were transplanted.

This principle, known as “Donor Dominance”, established that hair could be transplanted from the bald resistant donor areas to the balding areas and continues to grow for a life time. This laid the foundation for modern hair transplantation.

During the 60’s and 70’s surgical hair restoration grew in popularity. However, the standard procedure used large grafts that were removed by round punches and often contained many hairs.

Completed Result after Multiple Sessions of Large Grafts

This now outdated technique could achieve a full look if a patient completed all planned sessions. However, a patient was typically limited in the manner they could style their hair.

Patients who stopped short of completing all planned sessions were left with hair loss solutions that looked obvious and unnatural.

Such uncompleted hair restoration results are some times referred to as “barbie doll hair” or “corn rows”.

Many who have had these older techniques now refine or complete their hair transplants with today’s very refined techniques to achieve a natural look that they can style in any manner.

Nizoral 2% is magnificent shampoo and a significant part of what's referred to commonly as the Big 3. The other two are the FDA approved and proven treatments Propecia (finasteride)and Rogaine (minoxidil). To date, Nizoral is the only shampoo on the market that can make the unique claim that it's proven to stop the formation of DHT. Its active ingredient ketoconazoleat 2% concentration has proven to be a moderate DHT inhibitor and has growth stimulating properties about as effective as Rogaine 2%.

This product includes 2%, the highest concentration of the active ingredient ketoconazole. To view the clinical abstract proving the effectiveness of ketoconazole in the treatment of androgenetic alopecia, view "Ketoconazole as a hair loss treatment". There is also a less concentrated 1% of Nizoral. To learn more, visit Nizoral regular shampoo.

We strongly suggest using Nizoral shampoo in addition to other proven treatments. Nizoral should be used 2 or 3 times a week to avoid dry hair and a flakey scalp.

On the off days, you may want to consider rotating Nizoral with other excellent shampoos designed specifically for thinning hair. See the recommended treatments section below for other shampoos we recommend.

Developing Realistic Expectations:

Men and women sometimes suffer from hair loss for different reasons. Thus, diagnosing its cause is necessary to facilitate and promote proper treatment.

Don't expect immediate results. It's recommended to use Nizoral in conjunction with other proven treatments for at least 6 to 12 months before determining its effectiveness. Documenting your progress with bi-monthly photos can help you determine whether or not Nizoral has been successful in helping you maintain existing hair.

To date, only surgical hair restoration is proven to grow hair in completely bald areas. You are invited to have a free virtual consultation with one of our prescreened hair restoration physicians.

One product you used to see quite often in advertising is Avacor. According to Response magazine, Avacor was the third best selling product on the Internet in April, 2002. Avacor was originally manufactured by Global Vision Products. After being taken over by new management, it is now being manufactured by Avacor Products LLC.

Like most products that advertise 'Stop Hair Loss and Regrow Hair!', Avacor contains the only FDA approved topical drug minoxidil. Avacor, like other products with similar claims, mixes FDA approved drugs in their generic form with other ingredients in a multiple regimen of products like shampoo, lotion and vitamins.

Avacor historically cost approximately $239 for a two to three month supply and over $1000 for a year’s worth.  New prices are much more reasonable which range from $180 for a 3 month supply to $400 for a year’s supply of the men’s and women’s formula. Note that the ingredients in Avacor can be bought over the counter at your local store at a fraction of the cost for which they are sold in Avacor. However, they do offer 24/7 customer service and a 90 day money back guarantee.

Marketing Practices

Avacor, like other products with similar claims, has taken a lot of slack over the years for their controversial marketing tactics. Avacor has a checkered past and has previously been the focus of lawsuits and investigative reporting by major media like ABC news. Recently however, new management has taken over and claims they are very serious about selling quality products at more reasonable prices, without the hype and controversial marketing strategies. In looking at their website, while Avacor still uses slick marketing language to promote their products, the vast majority of their claims are much more realistic.

Avacor includes 3 distinct products that claim to provide “total hair care”. This includes a 'Scalp Detoxifying Shampoo', a 'Physicians Topical Formulation' and finally a 'Nutricap'. Avacor's Nutricap ingredients consist mainly of common herbs like saw palmetto, gingko biloba, keratin, resveratrol, and bilberry. While conjectured to inhibit the production of DHT, none of these ingredients are FDA approved or proven to stop hair loss. Avacor’s Physician’s Topical Formulation however, does contain 5% of the FDA approved hair regrowth agent minoxidil.

Other than minoxidil, no other ingredient is proven to regrow hair. A number of studies have been done that suggest saw palmetto inhibits the production of DHT, like Propecia. But, unlike Propecia, it has never been proven to stop or reverse hair loss.

Avacor Products

Avacor admits on their website that the only product proven to regrow hair is the Avacor Physician’s formulation which includes the FDA approved ingredient minoxidil (5% for men and 2% for women). The other products claim to provide hair with the essential nutrients for healthy hair growth but are careful not to claim to prevent the progression of male or female pattern baldness (androgenic alopecia). Perhaps this is why the Avacor Physician’s formulation can now be purchased separately. Costs of the Physician’s Formulation are still, but only a little more expensive than Rogaine topical hair loss treatment, one of the first and most popular topical minoxidil products.

The Avacor Study

At this time, Avacor’s proof comes in the form of the FDA approved study showing that minoxidil can stop and reverse hair loss.  No other study is provided with their product.  Their website also is much more realistic as to what their product line can accomplish for hair loss suffering consumers.

Confidence in Products and Services

Before you consider spending hundreds of dollars for any product or service, do a review. Legitimate products will have legitimate studies and have been reviewed on many quality websites. Doctors with real talent and satisfied patients will be able to show you dozens of photos and allow you to talk with past patients. Proven physicians will make available their resumes along with their formal education and associations they belong to.

It is always best to review a product or doctor for information on their background before you make a decision for something as important as hair loss and hair restoration.

Conclusion

At the very least, the Avacor Physician’s formulation will be as effective as the Rogaine liquid formula or generic minoxidil. However, to date, both Rogaine and generic minoxidil are more cost effective than Avacor.  The nutricap, shampoo, conditioner and other products may promote healthy hair and provide it with volume, but make no claims of stopping hair loss or regrowing hair.

Today it is a very refined outpatient procedure that can produce full and natural looking results, even after only one hair transplant session.

When performed correctly not even a hair stylist will detect that a person has had a hair transplant.

However, to achieve such natural results it is critical that the hair transplant procedure be "performed correctly". To do so requires a hair restoration clinic that can perform a follicular unit hair transplant at the highest levels of skill, experience, and dedication.

What it takes to create natural results.

A great hair transplant is the result of using a state of the art surgical procedure and performing it with great skill and artistry. Today the acknowledged "gold standard" in hair transplant surgery is called "Ultra Refined Follicular Unit Hair Transplantation".

This relatively new hair transplant procedure enables a patient to achieve extremely natural results because it recreates and mimics the way a person's hair grows naturally, hair for hair.

Recreating Nature Hair for Hair

To understand this procedure you must first understand how hair grows naturally.

If you look closely at naturally growing hair using magnification you will see that hair actually grows in groupings of one, two, three, and four hairs.

These naturally occurring hair groupings grow in irregular patterns on the scalp similar to trees growing in the forest. These groupings are technically referred to as "follicular units".

By relocating these carefully prepared and isolated follicular units, physicians doing "follicular unit hair transplantation" recreate a natural pattern of hair in the balding areas.

Follicular Unit Hair Transplant tough on the clinic but easy on the patient.

To do this properly is a very time consuming process. It requires a team of skilled and meticulous medical technicians working closely with the lead physician.

All our physician members perform this hair transplant procedure with excellent results. They are granted membership in the Coalition of Independent Hair Restoration Physicians strictly based on their proven high level of experience, ethics, and skill in successfully performing this patient friendly procedure.

While the follicular unit procedure is more demanding upon the medical staff, it produces dramatic and life long advantages for the patient such as undetectable naturalness, rapid healing, and optimal use of their limited donor hair.

The Standard Hair Transplant, easy on the clinic but not on the patient.

Only a minority of hair transplant surgeons are committed to doing the follicular unit procedure properly. Many physicians continue to dissect grafts without regard to the integrity of the follicular units. Follicular units are often transected and damaged as donor tissue is cut to conform to the size of the recipient holes rather than to maintain the integrity of the follicular units.

Such common standard hair transplant procedures are quicker and simpler to perform than follicular unit hair transplantation from the hair transplant surgeon's perspective. The standard hair transplant procedure is also often more profitable for the clinic since it requires less staff time, training, resources, and skill. However, the results are generally suboptimal for the patient.

Respecting the Follicular Unit

Each follicular unit is surrounded by small glands, blood vessels, nerves, and a connective tissue sac making it a tiny self contained unit.

If these follicular units are damaged during removal or dissection, the hair may grow poorly.

Therefore it is important to cut only in the loose tissue between the follicular units to keep each follicular unit intact and avoid damaging it.

Over the past several years surgeons have used various techniques to perform follicular unit hair transplantation. One such technique is the Lateral Slit Technique, also known as Coronal or Perpendicular Grafting. This technique’s name is derived from the angle and direction in which the graft incisions are made.

While there are other techniques for performing densely packed and highly refined follicular unit transplantation, the lateral slit technique offers a high degree of control over the angle and direction in which the transplanted hairs will ultimately grow.

The lateral slit technique has been used both intuitively and systematically for years by hair restoration physicians. However, it has recently gained popularity as a systematic and precise way of performing follicular unit hair transplantation.

How our member physicians use the Lateral Slit Technique.

Many of our physician members use the Lateral Slit Technique exclusively or in combination with other techniques for creating graft incisions. The lateral slit technique enables a surgeon to create graft incisions at varying angles (ranging from 10 to 90 degrees to the scalp), including very acute angles that will make the transplanted hair grow out lying flatter to the scalp. The ability to create incisions at very acute angles is particularly useful in areas such as the front temples and sides where the hair normally grows out lying flat on the scalp.

The graft incision determines the direction of the hair growth

The lateral slit technique also helps enable a surgeon to determine the direction of the graft incisions. This then determines the ultimate direction of the transplanted hairs growth. Thus a surgeon can use this technique to control and vary both the direction and angle at which the transplanted hair will grow in order to mimic the subtle changes in hair direction that occur naturally.

Each graft incision is created by analyzing the neighboring hair so the surgeon can reproduce the correct hair pattern. As a result, as each transplanted hair emerges from the scalp it will grow and lay in a similar direction as its neighboring non-transplanted hairs.

Lateral slits can enable denser packing of grafts

Lateral slit incisions also tend to be more parallel to the scalp and thus more superficial and less invasive to the scalp’s underlying vascular structure. This parallel alignment also enables a physician to place more grafts per square centimeter with out the grafts compressing or popping up since the pressure exerted on the grafts does not push them upward from the scalp.

Using blades cut to the size of the grafts

Some of our members use custom blade cutters to create tiny blades to make incisions that match the size and depth of each follicular unit graft being transplanted. This enables a surgeon to safely dense pack more grafts into a given area during a surgical session. Healing time is also more rapid, with minimal scarring.

Typically most clinic’s blades range from 1.5mm to 2mm in size. However, by using the custom blade cutter our physicians can create blades as small as .7mm for a single hair graft and .9mm for a multi hair graft.

In addition, the blades created by the custom cutter are squared off to match the shape of the bulb end of a hair follicle. Non custom cut blades are typically spear pointed which requires them to be inserted deeper thus causing more trauma to the scalps vascular structure.

The ability to control the depth of the incision each blade makes is also critical. Each blade is placed in a blade holder that is set to not allow the blade to go any deeper than required for the graft to being placed in the incision. This minimizes unnecessary trauma to the deep vasculature of the scalp, thus enabling close tight incisions, minimal tissue swelling, and quick healing that leaves no visible scaring, pitting, or cobble stoning of the scalp.

Placing grafts to maximize their aesthetic result and coverage

The plane and direction in which each follicular unit graft is placed on the scalp can also impact the ultimate appearance of density that can be produced with a given number of grafts. This is because hairs within a follicular unit are typically next to each other inline.

Therefore by arranging each multiple hair graft on the scalp in a linear fashion to the line of sight, each follicular unit will provide the maximum appearance of fullness and scalp coverage. This also mimics how hair is normally aligned on the scalp.

Special thanks to Dr. DeYarman, Dr. Sharon Keene, Dr. Jerry Cooley, Dr. Alexander, and Dr. Glenn Charles for contributing their expertise and photos for this section.