A Cosmetic Tattooing Procedure to Conceal Hair Loss

Scalp Micropigmentation, the process of tattooing thinning or bald areas of the scalp to resemble shortly cropped hair, has been met with high amounts of enthusiasm from patients seeking alternative ways to mask and conceal their hair loss. This artistic and minimally invasive procedure, also referred to as SMP, provides men and women suffering from hair loss with an illusion of fullness or the appearance of thick, shortly cropped hair. SMP results (not the procedure) are often compared to topical concealers such as Toppik, DermMatch and Nanogen, because they also help conceal baldness and make thinning hair appear thicker and fuller.

Although scalp micropigmentation is increasing in popularity, it is still a new and evolving practice and its mystique may leave interested patients asking several important questions.

How does scalp micropigmentation work? What are the benefits, limitations and potential risks associated with the procedure? Who is a suitable candidate? What are the costs associated with SMP? What happens if consumers don't like the results? Is the ink associated with scalp micropigmentation permanent? Are all SMP practitioners equal or do some produce better, more natural looking results?

Scalp Micropigmentation is the artistic application of tattoo-like ink or pigmentation "dots" to bald or thinning areas of the scalp to recreate the appearance of shortly cropped hair (or "stubble") by a trained practitioner. SMP practitioners are typically experienced in the art but often aren't medical professionals or hair restoration physicians. Scalp micropigmentation is typically used for one of three purposes. These include:

• Creating the illusion of fullness or density to thinning hair by applying cropped, hair-like tattoos in between and around thinning hair.
• Creating the appearance of closely cropped or shaved hair on an otherwise bald scalp.
• Camouflaging a pre-existing hair transplant scar. Typically, this is a rare, but stretched, linear scars from follicular unit hair transplantation procedures via strip harvesting (FUT) can sometimes require revision.

Scalp micropigmentation ink is normally placed in the superficial dermis, a layer of skin between the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin) and subcutaneous tissues that consists of connective tissue and cushions the body from stress and strain. However, SMP practitioners often place ink at varying depths. Some practitioners are now beginning to use a “sweeping” technique when tattooing, in order to create a more three-dimensional appearance on the scalp.

Depending on the size of the balding/thinning area and the desired appearance, the procedure can take anywhere from 1-8 hours, and can now be completed with both permanent and temporary SMP ink.

According to Coalition hair transplant surgeon Dr. Robert Bernstein, the key to further achieving a natural result with SMP lies in holding the inking tool at an appropriate angle, controlling the depth at which the ink is placed, monitoring the amount of ink deposited at each site, and selecting appropriate ink tones.

To read more of Dr. Bernstein's input and discussion related to SMP at the 2012 annual ISHRS Scientific Meeting for hair restoration physicians, visit "Scalp Micropigmentation (Scalp Tattooing)at the 2012 ISHRS (International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery) Scientific Meeting".

Permanent Versus Temporary Scalp Micropigmentation (Advantages and Disadvantages)

Defining and understanding the difference between permanent and temporary ink is important for any consumer considering the procedure.

Permanent scalp micropigmentation is performed with micropigmentation ink that is not designed to fade or change over time. The ink is placed slightly deeper in the scalp tissue, and the procedure can be performed with ink containing both colored and black pigment.

Advantages of permanent SMP include the ability to undergo a single SMP treatment without frequent “touch ups" and potentially lower long-term costs.

Disadvantages include the possibility that the ink will eventually fade to a green or blue hue (due mainly to the black pigment used in permanent SMP ink) and the inability to reverse the procedure without laser pigment removal (i.e. “laser tattoo removal”) if the work is unsatisfactory.

Temporary scalp micropigmentation is performed with ink that is specially designed to gradually fade and disappear within 6 to 24 months after the procedure. The ink is placed into a superficial layer of the scalp, which allegedly helps to define the pigmentation and decrease the probability of “blurring” ink. Temporary SMP is performed with ink containing no black pigment. Because black pigmentation can eventually fade into a blue or green tone, it would inevitably produce an unnatural looking result as it gradually fades and disappears, and should be avoided.

Advantages of temporary SMP include: the ability to redesign or discontinue the process (when the ink fades after 6-24 months) if the results are not satisfactory; the decreased rates of ink blurring, running, and definition loss with the superficial placement into the scalp; and the ability to use the three-dimension technique (which was designed by Beauty Medical in Milan, Italy, and is now utilized by several leading clinics recommended by this patient community).

Disadvantages of temporary SMP include ongoing maintenance and costs associated with undergoing subsequent SMP applications every 6 to 24 months, and the possibility of discoloration as the ink fades (though the temporary ink is purposely designed to fade evenly and without discoloration).

To learn more about the advantages and disadvantages of permanent and temporary SMP, visit "Temporary Scalp Micropigmentation: Advantages, Disadvantages, and Clinics Currently Offering the Procedure".

Scalp Micropigmentation Costs

The cost of SMP is variable and depends upon the type of procedure (temporary versus permanent), size of the procedure, and the practitioner/clinic performing the micropigmentation. While rates typically vary and change, permanent SMP can cost anywhere from $800 for a small procedure and $6000 for a large one. The cost of temporary SMP is approximately half the cost of permanent SMP and typically ranges from $500 to $2500 depending on the size of the procedure. Subsequent procedures, which are needed 6 to 24 months after the initial results fade are typically 50% of the original costs.

What Makes a Good SMP Candidate?

Although a wide variety of men and women are interested in scalp micropigmentation, the procedure is actually only ideally suited for a small, select number of hair loss consumers.
SMP is likely best suited for individuals interested in aiding the appearance of density in shortly cropped, diffusely thinned hair, and for patients trying to camouflage a hair transplant scar. It may also be suitable in creating a greater illusion of fullness in those who've already undergone surgical hair restoration.

SMP consumers should also consider a naturally asymmetrical hairline design and “fading” effect (from decreased pigmentation in the hairline to denser, increased pigmentation in the middle scalp) if hairline restoration is performed. This approach will likely create a more natural result in eligible candidates.

Creating Realistic Expectations

While scalp micropigmentation may be a useful adjunct therapy for a select group of consumers interested in concealing their hair loss, it should be approached with realistic expectations and performed by a trusted clinic. Individuals considering the procedure must remember that SMP is a two-dimensional process and cannot provide the texture and growth of real hair. Undergoing SMP without respecting its limitations may create unrealistic expectations and disappointing results.

Evolving Procedure or Just a Fad?

Is SMP just a fad or will it continue to evolve and cultivate additional interest from hair loss sufferers and hair restoration physicians?

While some hair loss experts are quickly embracing the procedure, others are more resistant, and liken scalp micropigmentation to less popular "niche" treatments like hair systems, laser caps, and topical concealers. Whether or not it will continue increasing in popularity and retain its momentum is not yet clear.

Hair restoration is a rapidly changing field and new and evolving therapies may eventually render scalp micropigmentation and other hair loss treatments obsolete.  Altogether, only time will tell whether SMP is a lasting adjunct therapy or a passing fad.

Clinics Currently Offering Scalp Micropigmentation

As of January 2013, the following hair restoration clinics recommended by this website are offering some form of Scalp Micropigmentation: Hasson and Wong (Drs. Victor Hasson and Jerry Wong), and Shapiro Medical Group (Drs. Ron and Paul Shapiro).

Dr. Feller, Dr. Lindsey, Hasson and Wong, and Shapiro Medical Group trained with Beauty Medical and offer the temporary SMP procedure; Dr. William Rassman performs his own variation of Scalp Micropigmentation with permanent ink.

Note that in many cases, a trained technician and not the physician will be performing scalp micropigmentation.

This website does not currently recommend one SMP clinic over another. Those considering scalp micropigmentation as a tool to conceal hair loss and create an illusion of hair are encouraged to do their own diligence in researching each technique, practitioner and clinic.

To discuss scalp micropigmentation with hair loss sufferers and other interested parties and to view results showing before and after pictures, visit the Scalp Micropigmentation Forum.

Men and women who have the impulse to pull their own hair out may be suffering from trichotillomania. Trichotillomania is an impulse control disorder characterized by the repeated urge to and behavior of pulling out one's own hair. Impulse control disorders resemble substance addictions because the patient feels out of control of his or her own behaviors. Men and women with trichotillomania live relatively normal lives but typically show signs of hair loss, thinning, and bald spots all over the scalp and body from pulling it out.

Treating trichotillomaniagoes far beyond trying to stimulate hair regrowth.Even if Rogaineor laser therapy for hair losswere to regrow hair, there is a strong possibility that trichotillomania patients will continue to pull their hair out. Patients with trichotillomania therefore, should be treated at the source of the disorder in conjunction with using proven hair loss treatments.

In addition to medication, Habit Reversal Training (HRT) by a trained counselor has proven to be successful in treating trichotillomania. With Habit Reversal Training, the individual is taught to recognize and redirect their impulse to other more constructive activities. Often times, trichotillomaniapatients are asked to keep a journal of their hair pulling episodes. This can help the counselor and patient to identify and develop strategies to avoid situations that might trigger hair pulling episodes. Journals often include the location of the incident, number of hairs pulled, date, time, and their feelings and thoughts during the episode.

Treating a trichotillomania patient's baldness may be done simultaneously or after proper treatment of the disorder. Rogaine (minoxidil)can be a helpful aid to HRT by stimulating the follicles underneath the scalp, potentially facilitating or expediting hair growth.Treating a patient’s hair loss while they continue to pull their hair out is not constructive. Since this type of balding is not genetic due to the production of DHT, Propecia (finasteride)won't likely help.

Patients who've suffered from trichotillomania for awhile may damage or even remove the hair roots by excessive pulling, making non-surgical hair regrowth next to impossible. Surgicalhair restorationmay be an option for trichotillomania patients whose hair roots are too damaged to produce new hair on their own. Hairrestoration surgeryshould be reserved only for patients who've been successfully treated and no longer suffers from trichotillomania.

Catching and treating trichotillomania early will most likely reduce damage done to the hair follicles and eliminate the need for hair loss treatment, since undamaged hair will return on its own.

In the 80's hair restoration surgery as a hair loss solution evolved dramatically, as the large punch grafts were gradually replaced with a more refined combination of mini and micrografts. This "combination mini micrografting" hair transplantation procedure no longer used the punch to extract the bald resistant grafts. Rather a strip of bald resistant hair was surgically removed from the back of the head and then trimmed into mini and micrografts.

Typically the minigrafts (4-8 hairs) were used to create fullness and density, while the one, two, and three hair micrografts were used to create a refined and feathered hairline in front. This combination procedure also normally used more grafts, several hundred grafts per session, rather than the approximately 50 to 200 large grafts of the original punch graft procedure.

Follicular Unit Hair Transplantation (FUT) the "Gold Standard"

The 90's saw the gradual introduction of a very refined surgical procedure hair loss solution now known as "follicular unit hair transplantation" or "FUT". This exacting and labor intensive procedure transplants hairs in their naturally occurring one, two, three, and four hair "follicular unit groupings" in which they grow naturally.

To create such natural follicular unit grafts, which mimic the way hair grows naturally, typically requires the use of high powered magnification. Such magnification enables the surgical technicians to properly visualize the follicular units in the donor tissue. They are then able to isolate them and cut them into 1, 2, 3, and some times 4 hair follicular unit grafts.

The Age of Natural Hair Transplant

Critical to the ultimate success of the follicular unit hair transplant procedure was the introduction of the binocular microscope by Dr. Bobby Limmer of San Antonio Texas in the late 1980's. Dr. Limmer found that by using the microscope he and his staff were able to successfully isolate and trim the naturally occurring follicular units into individual grafts.

For his part in pioneering the use the microscope in graft dissection and the follicular unit procedure Dr. Bobby Limmer was awarded the "Platinum Follicle Award" by the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery in 1996. Many physicians now fondly refer to him as the "Godfather of Follicular Unit Hair Transplantation".

Dr Bobby Limmer

Dr Bernstein

While Dr. Limmer pioneered the use of the microscope in trimming follicular unit grafts, it was Dr. Robert M. Bernstein, in collaboration with Dr. Bill Rassman, who pioneered and advanced the concept of large sessions of all follicular unit grafting. These large follicular unit sessions enabled patients to achieve both naturalness and density.

Dr. Bernstein, who coined the name "follicular unit hair transplantation", tirelessly advocated for its adoption in ground breaking articles and lectures that are today recognized as benchmarks in the advancement of this procedure. Click to read these ground breaking hair restoration articles and papers.

In recognition of his many contributions in both conceptualizing, pioneering and advocating "follicular unit hair transplantation", Dr. Bob Bernstein was awarded the "Platinum Follicle Award" by the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery.

Over time the merits of this refined but difficult to perform procedure became accepted and the follicular unit hair transplant procedure has become acknowledged by most hair restoration physicians to be the "Gold Standard" for surgical hair restoration. Click here to see video of a Follicular Unit Hair Transplant procedure.

Some feel that hair restoration surgery has evolved to its highest degree now that it relocates hair exactly as it grows naturally. However, even the "Gold Standard" in hair transplantation has continued to evolve by becoming even more "ultra refined".

Today some leading hair restoration surgeons, including all members of the Coalition of Independent Hair Restoration Physicians, perform an ultra refined follicular unit hair transplant procedure using very tiny incisions that enable them to safely "dense pack" tiny grafts when appropriate. This ultra refined follicular unit procedure is a hair loss solution that enables patients to achieve cosmetic density in a given area after only one surgical session.

While hair restoration surgery is now a proven treatment for restoring hair where it has been lost, Hair loss medication such as Rogaine (minoxidil) and Propecia (finasteride), have made real contributions toward stopping and even reversing hair loss.

During the late 70’s and early 80’s it was discovered that minoxidil, used as a heart medication, had hair growing side effects. Minoxidil was tested for use as a topical scalp treatment for hair loss and proved to inhibit hair loss in many test subjects.

It has proven to be effective to some degree in slowing the hair loss process. For a minority of people it can even grow back lost hairs in the crown area (back of the head). However, Rogaine (minoxidil) does not slow or reverse the balding process in the frontal hairline area.

Rogaine is typically applied topically on the scalp twice a day, morning and evening. But once usage is discontinued the hair loss which had been inhibited will resume and the hair that was saved will be lost.

Rogaine originally required a prescription, but in 1995, it became available in 2% strength Rogaine over-the-counter. Today, men and women can buy 5% strength lotion over-the-counter as Rogaine or as generic minoxidil.

To date Rogaine (minoxidil) and Propecia (finasteride)are the only hair loss medications with FDA approval. Propecia’s active ingredient, finasteride, was originally used to treat enlarged prostate glands. It was discovered that, like minoxidil, it had the “side effect” of stopping male pattern baldness and for some even regrowing hair.

Propecia is taken as a pill once daily and acts to inhibit the body’s ability to create dyhydrotestosterone or “DHT”. DHT acts as the active ingredient or catalyst in the balding process.

Rogaine and Propecia

The 90’s brought great advances in hair restoration, both surgical and non surgical. Now most people can realistically halt and reverse their hair loss with truly natural results.

In 1988 minoxidil, Rogaine, became the first hair loss medication to be approved by the FDA for the treatment of hair loss.

In 1998 the FDA approved Propecia for the treatment of hair loss. Propecia (finasteride) should NOT be taken by woman or children for any reason.

Learn about all your hair loss treatment options.