A Cosmetic Tattooing Procedure to Conceal Hair Loss

Scalp Micropigmentation, the process of tattooing thinning or bald areas of the scalp to resemble shortly cropped hair, has been met with high amounts of enthusiasm from patients seeking alternative ways to mask and conceal their hair loss. This artistic and minimally invasive procedure, also referred to as SMP, provides men and women suffering from hair loss with an illusion of fullness or the appearance of thick, shortly cropped hair. SMP results (not the procedure) are often compared to topical concealers such as Toppik, DermMatch and Nanogen, because they also help conceal baldness and make thinning hair appear thicker and fuller.

Although scalp micropigmentation is increasing in popularity, it is still a new and evolving practice and its mystique may leave interested patients asking several important questions.

How does scalp micropigmentation work? What are the benefits, limitations and potential risks associated with the procedure? Who is a suitable candidate? What are the costs associated with SMP? What happens if consumers don't like the results? Is the ink associated with scalp micropigmentation permanent? Are all SMP practitioners equal or do some produce better, more natural looking results?

Scalp Micropigmentation is the artistic application of tattoo-like ink or pigmentation "dots" to bald or thinning areas of the scalp to recreate the appearance of shortly cropped hair (or "stubble") by a trained practitioner. SMP practitioners are typically experienced in the art but often aren't medical professionals or hair restoration physicians. Scalp micropigmentation is typically used for one of three purposes. These include:

• Creating the illusion of fullness or density to thinning hair by applying cropped, hair-like tattoos in between and around thinning hair.
• Creating the appearance of closely cropped or shaved hair on an otherwise bald scalp.
• Camouflaging a pre-existing hair transplant scar. Typically, this is a rare, but stretched, linear scars from follicular unit hair transplantation procedures via strip harvesting (FUT) can sometimes require revision.

Scalp micropigmentation ink is normally placed in the superficial dermis, a layer of skin between the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin) and subcutaneous tissues that consists of connective tissue and cushions the body from stress and strain. However, SMP practitioners often place ink at varying depths. Some practitioners are now beginning to use a “sweeping” technique when tattooing, in order to create a more three-dimensional appearance on the scalp.

Depending on the size of the balding/thinning area and the desired appearance, the procedure can take anywhere from 1-8 hours, and can now be completed with both permanent and temporary SMP ink.

According to Coalition hair transplant surgeon Dr. Robert Bernstein, the key to further achieving a natural result with SMP lies in holding the inking tool at an appropriate angle, controlling the depth at which the ink is placed, monitoring the amount of ink deposited at each site, and selecting appropriate ink tones.

To read more of Dr. Bernstein's input and discussion related to SMP at the 2012 annual ISHRS Scientific Meeting for hair restoration physicians, visit "Scalp Micropigmentation (Scalp Tattooing)at the 2012 ISHRS (International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery) Scientific Meeting".

Permanent Versus Temporary Scalp Micropigmentation (Advantages and Disadvantages)

Defining and understanding the difference between permanent and temporary ink is important for any consumer considering the procedure.

Permanent scalp micropigmentation is performed with micropigmentation ink that is not designed to fade or change over time. The ink is placed slightly deeper in the scalp tissue, and the procedure can be performed with ink containing both colored and black pigment.

Advantages of permanent SMP include the ability to undergo a single SMP treatment without frequent “touch ups" and potentially lower long-term costs.

Disadvantages include the possibility that the ink will eventually fade to a green or blue hue (due mainly to the black pigment used in permanent SMP ink) and the inability to reverse the procedure without laser pigment removal (i.e. “laser tattoo removal”) if the work is unsatisfactory.

Temporary scalp micropigmentation is performed with ink that is specially designed to gradually fade and disappear within 6 to 24 months after the procedure. The ink is placed into a superficial layer of the scalp, which allegedly helps to define the pigmentation and decrease the probability of “blurring” ink. Temporary SMP is performed with ink containing no black pigment. Because black pigmentation can eventually fade into a blue or green tone, it would inevitably produce an unnatural looking result as it gradually fades and disappears, and should be avoided.

Advantages of temporary SMP include: the ability to redesign or discontinue the process (when the ink fades after 6-24 months) if the results are not satisfactory; the decreased rates of ink blurring, running, and definition loss with the superficial placement into the scalp; and the ability to use the three-dimension technique (which was designed by Beauty Medical in Milan, Italy, and is now utilized by several leading clinics recommended by this patient community).

Disadvantages of temporary SMP include ongoing maintenance and costs associated with undergoing subsequent SMP applications every 6 to 24 months, and the possibility of discoloration as the ink fades (though the temporary ink is purposely designed to fade evenly and without discoloration).

To learn more about the advantages and disadvantages of permanent and temporary SMP, visit "Temporary Scalp Micropigmentation: Advantages, Disadvantages, and Clinics Currently Offering the Procedure".

Scalp Micropigmentation Costs

The cost of SMP is variable and depends upon the type of procedure (temporary versus permanent), size of the procedure, and the practitioner/clinic performing the micropigmentation. While rates typically vary and change, permanent SMP can cost anywhere from $800 for a small procedure and $6000 for a large one. The cost of temporary SMP is approximately half the cost of permanent SMP and typically ranges from $500 to $2500 depending on the size of the procedure. Subsequent procedures, which are needed 6 to 24 months after the initial results fade are typically 50% of the original costs.

What Makes a Good SMP Candidate?

Although a wide variety of men and women are interested in scalp micropigmentation, the procedure is actually only ideally suited for a small, select number of hair loss consumers.
SMP is likely best suited for individuals interested in aiding the appearance of density in shortly cropped, diffusely thinned hair, and for patients trying to camouflage a hair transplant scar. It may also be suitable in creating a greater illusion of fullness in those who've already undergone surgical hair restoration.

SMP consumers should also consider a naturally asymmetrical hairline design and “fading” effect (from decreased pigmentation in the hairline to denser, increased pigmentation in the middle scalp) if hairline restoration is performed. This approach will likely create a more natural result in eligible candidates.

Creating Realistic Expectations

While scalp micropigmentation may be a useful adjunct therapy for a select group of consumers interested in concealing their hair loss, it should be approached with realistic expectations and performed by a trusted clinic. Individuals considering the procedure must remember that SMP is a two-dimensional process and cannot provide the texture and growth of real hair. Undergoing SMP without respecting its limitations may create unrealistic expectations and disappointing results.

Evolving Procedure or Just a Fad?

Is SMP just a fad or will it continue to evolve and cultivate additional interest from hair loss sufferers and hair restoration physicians?

While some hair loss experts are quickly embracing the procedure, others are more resistant, and liken scalp micropigmentation to less popular "niche" treatments like hair systems, laser caps, and topical concealers. Whether or not it will continue increasing in popularity and retain its momentum is not yet clear.

Hair restoration is a rapidly changing field and new and evolving therapies may eventually render scalp micropigmentation and other hair loss treatments obsolete.  Altogether, only time will tell whether SMP is a lasting adjunct therapy or a passing fad.

Clinics Currently Offering Scalp Micropigmentation

As of January 2013, the following hair restoration clinics recommended by this website are offering some form of Scalp Micropigmentation: Hasson and Wong (Drs. Victor Hasson and Jerry Wong), and Shapiro Medical Group (Drs. Ron and Paul Shapiro).

Dr. Feller, Dr. Lindsey, Hasson and Wong, and Shapiro Medical Group trained with Beauty Medical and offer the temporary SMP procedure; Dr. William Rassman performs his own variation of Scalp Micropigmentation with permanent ink.

Note that in many cases, a trained technician and not the physician will be performing scalp micropigmentation.

This website does not currently recommend one SMP clinic over another. Those considering scalp micropigmentation as a tool to conceal hair loss and create an illusion of hair are encouraged to do their own diligence in researching each technique, practitioner and clinic.

To discuss scalp micropigmentation with hair loss sufferers and other interested parties and to view results showing before and after pictures, visit the Scalp Micropigmentation Forum.

Is it Effective in Stopping Hair Loss?

Use of low level laser therapy (LLLT) devices for treating hair loss has been heavily debated for some time by reputable hair restoration physicians and patients on our hair loss forum. While some physicians reject its use entirely, others use laser hair treatment as a regular part of their practice. Additionally, some physicians believe that laser light therapy can assist with postoperative healing after hair transplant surgery.

History of Laser Light Therapy

Shortly after the first working laser was invented in 1964, a researcher from Semmelweis University of Budapest named Andre Mester developed a theory that exposure to cold laser light (similar to UV radiation emitted by the sun) may eventually lead to cancer. To test his theory, Mester shaved a group of mice and trapped some of them in a cage with constant cold laser light exposure leaving the other half unexposed as a control group. To his surprise, the light didn’t cause cancer in any of his animal subjects. Instead, mice that were exposed to the laser light therapy grew back their shaved fur much faster than the control group. Mester named his discovery photo-biostimulation. His theory was that somehow, the laser light had stimulated the hair cells into an accelerated state of hair growth.

Laser Therapy as a Hair Loss Treatment

Today, low level laser therapy is being used as a hair loss treatment. To treat baldness with laser light therapy, laser rays are directly applied to the scalp by a mechanical device so that red blood cells are stimulated. Lasers are said to work by converting ATP (Adenosine Triphosphate) to ADP (Adenosine Diphosphate), releasing energy and causing cellular metabolic changes. During this process, additional nutrients and oxygen are provided to the scalp assisting the normal chemical processes performed by those cells, increasing overall blood circulation. Lasers, when applied to the scalp and hair, have been said to improve overall hair quality, promote hair growth, and increase hair shaft diameter.

Laser treatment devices have a similar appearance to a hood hair dryer which is placed over top of your head. The low level laser toll will rotate allowing laser rays, usually red in color, to be discharged into your scalp. Hand held devices such as the Hairmax comb have also been developed and resemble a brush in appearance.

Promoting healthy hair growth however, is not the same as the regrowth of miniaturized hairs brought on by genetic female hair loss or male pattern baldness (MPB). So what clinical evidence exists, if any, that laser therapy is an effective treatment? Below we take a closer look at the available data including exclusive interviews of leading hair restoration physicians.

Varying Opinions of Well Respected Physicians

Physicians have long shared varying views on whether or not laser treatment is viable. While some well respected physicians reject its use entirely, some believe that LLLT can provide marginal benefit for men and women suffering from androgenic alopecia (genetic baldness). Additionally, some physicians believe that laser hair treatment can assist a hair transplant patient’s postoperative wound healing process and expedite hair growth.

Dr. Charles (one of our well respected members of the Coalition of Independent Hair Restoration Physicians) believes it may provide similar hair loss prevention benefit to Rogaine in the mid vertex area and crown. Benefits in the frontal area include an increase in overall hair quality rather than hair loss prevention.

Dr. Charles believes LLLT works better when combined with Propecia (finasteride) and Rogaine (minoxidil). Like Propecia and Rogaine, he believes low level laser therapy may help some patients more than others and works better in patients with only minimal thinning hair.

Dr. Charles believes in helping balding men and women develop and maintain realistic expectations and he doesn’t oversell its benefits. Because lasers are free from side effects, he always tells his patients that the biggest risk is the money. Dr. Charles believes more research on laser hair treatment is needed.;

Dr. Williams of the Coalition has been using laser hair treatment as a regular part of his practice for over 2 years and feels quite confident in its success in some patients. In his experience, LLLT promotes healthy hair growth and can increase hair shaft diameter of miniaturized hair affected by genetic female hair loss and male pattern baldness in some patients.

Dr. Williams offers 16 free laser therapy sessions to local males following hair transplant procedures and encourages his female transplant patients to undergo laser light therapy for one full year at a highly discounted rate. Dr. Williams usually notices faster transplanted hair regrowth and a quicker resolution of postoperative telogen effluvium or “shock loss”, if it occurs.

Because androgenic alopecia is a progressive condition, Dr. Williams encourages male patients to use Propecia while encouraging out of town females to use the Hairmax laser comb to help maintain their existing hair. Dr. Williams would like to see more formal studies defining the benefits of lasers as a hair loss treatment, but he is encouraged by his experience with it to date.

Dr. Alan Feller (also a member of the Coalition) is one doctor who remains skeptical. "Medical lasers work in only one way, and that is to deliver energy to a target. When it strikes the target the energy is absorbed and converted to heat. That's it". Dr. Feller believes that more compelling evidence is needed to promote low level laser therapy (LLLT) as a hair regrowth solution or to stop hair loss.

Recent Scientific Studies

study presented at the last International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) meeting in Las Vegas (2007) by Maria A Muricy, MD, confirms increase in hair shaft diameter, fullness, and overall quality with laser hair treatment alone. Additionally, some statistically significant evidence reveals that low level laser therapy when combined with 5% minoxidil (the active ingredient in FDA approved Rogaine) provided noticeable cosmetic benefits for women in particular. However, this study also showed that laser hair loss treatment alone produced no statistically significant new hair growth in both men and women.

Laser Hair Therapy and FDA Approval

Another important issue to consider is the significance and meaning of the FDA clearance (not approval) of the Hairmax laser comb. Though some have proposed the Hairmax laser comb was only approved for safety, apparently the FDA did require Lexington International (who funded the study) to provide it with a study on its efficacy (effectiveness) in treating baldness. But this study and its results have not been released to the public since Lexington International had the option of submitting the study to the FDA privately. The obvious question then is – why would Lexington hide their study from the public if it proved the efficacy of laser hair regrowth?

While the Hairmax laser comb device was found by the FDA to be safe based on its “substantial equivalence” to previously approved laser light therapy devices and thus “cleared” (not “approved”), it was unclear to what extend the FDA reviewed or cleared it based on its effectiveness in treating hair loss. To learn more about the FDA standards for “approving” food and drugs and for “clearing” medical devices visit www.fda.gov

It appears that much of the laser hair treatment industry is now promoting their devices as “FDA Approved for Hair Loss” as if they are on par with the two only FDA approved hair loss solutions Propecia (finasteride) and Rogaine (minoxidil). However, until laser hair treatment provides compelling public evidence of its effectiveness in treating hair loss, it is quite possible that the effectiveness of low level laser therapy may be oversold by some companies. We expect that time will tell.

Follicular unit extraction is a minimally invasive procedure for performing follicular unit hair transplantation. However, unlike the predominant follicular unit transplant procedure, in which a strip of donor tissue is removed and dissected under magnification, the FUE procedure uses a small punch to extract each follicular unit one by one.

Both the strip excision and FUE procedures create 1, 2, 3, and 4 hair follicular unit grafts that are then transplanted into the balding area in the same manner. The primary difference between these two procedures is the technique used to harvest the follicular unit grafts.

Comparing the Strip Excision procedure to the Extraction (FUE) procedure

The common strip excision method of performing follicular unit hair transplantation involves surgically excising a thin horizontal strip of bald resistant skin from the donor area.

Strip Excision Procedure 

Donor strip being excised

Incision sutured together

Hair combed down after suturing

This donor area is then sutured together. These sutures (either stitches or staples) are then typically removed about ten days after surgery. Some physicians use dissolvable sutures so that no removal is needed.

Patient’s donor area 2 months after surgery

Once this linear incision is fully healed the patient is left with a thin horizontal scar in the back of the head. This scar is typically hard to detect since the surrounding hair conceals it, even when the hair is cut short.

To view a video of an actual strip excision surgery.

How the FUE Procedure is performed

With the Follicular Unit Extraction or FUE procedure 1, 2, 3, and 4 hair follicular unit grafts are carefully extracted one at a time using a tiny punch of one millimeter or less. Often the surgeon requires the patient to buzz cut a portion of their donor area so that they are able to see the patient’s scalp.

The follicular units are extracted

The follicular units are extracted by placing the punch around a single follicular unit and cutting a small circle through the skin around that follicular unit. The follicular unit is then gently pulled up and away from the loose tissue underneath the skin.

The small hole left behind after the follicle is extracted then heals over the following week. Normally this small round incision contracts as it heals making the resulting round scar smaller than the size of the 1mm punch that made the incision. The FUE patient ultimately ends up with hundreds of small round white scars, which are normally not detectable once the patient’s hair grows out.View a video of an actual FUE surgery.

To Extract or to Excise, that is the question.

Advocates for the relatively new FUE procedure claim that this procedure produces less noticeable scarring and no tightness or numbness in the donor area since no donor tissue has been pulled together and sutured. Many patients and physicians find the claim that FUE produces less visible scarring to be debatable.

Some physicians and patients also have concerns about the relatively new FUE procedure, such as the lack of formal studies regarding the percentage of follicles that may or may not be transected during the sight unseen extraction process.

In addition, since the physician must personally extract all follicles, one by one, the FUE procedure is very physician dependent and thus very expensive. The FUE procedure also requires considerably more time in surgery to move a given amount of hair to the balding area.

The standard strip excision procedure has the advantage of utilizing a collaborative team to carefully create the grafts once the donor tissue is removed in a strip. This collaborative approach enables a well trained staff to do sessions of 2,000 to 3,000 all follicular unit grafts in a single day. This team approach enables a patient to get a much larger number of grafts/hairs in one sitting at a much lower cost per hair than with the FUE procedure.

However, some believe that despite being relatively costly the FUE procedure may be appropriate for patients who have very limited elasticity in their donor area or who only need a small number of grafts.

While hair restoration surgery is now a proven treatment for restoring hair where it has been lost, Hair loss medication such as Rogaine (minoxidil) and Propecia (finasteride), have made real contributions toward stopping and even reversing hair loss.

During the late 70’s and early 80’s it was discovered that minoxidil, used as a heart medication, had hair growing side effects. Minoxidil was tested for use as a topical scalp treatment for hair loss and proved to inhibit hair loss in many test subjects.

It has proven to be effective to some degree in slowing the hair loss process. For a minority of people it can even grow back lost hairs in the crown area (back of the head). However, Rogaine (minoxidil) does not slow or reverse the balding process in the frontal hairline area.

Rogaine is typically applied topically on the scalp twice a day, morning and evening. But once usage is discontinued the hair loss which had been inhibited will resume and the hair that was saved will be lost.

Rogaine originally required a prescription, but in 1995, it became available in 2% strength Rogaine over-the-counter. Today, men and women can buy 5% strength lotion over-the-counter as Rogaine or as generic minoxidil.

To date Rogaine (minoxidil) and Propecia (finasteride)are the only hair loss medications with FDA approval. Propecia’s active ingredient, finasteride, was originally used to treat enlarged prostate glands. It was discovered that, like minoxidil, it had the “side effect” of stopping male pattern baldness and for some even regrowing hair.

Propecia is taken as a pill once daily and acts to inhibit the body’s ability to create dyhydrotestosterone or “DHT”. DHT acts as the active ingredient or catalyst in the balding process.

Rogaine and Propecia

The 90’s brought great advances in hair restoration, both surgical and non surgical. Now most people can realistically halt and reverse their hair loss with truly natural results.

In 1988 minoxidil, Rogaine, became the first hair loss medication to be approved by the FDA for the treatment of hair loss.

In 1998 the FDA approved Propecia for the treatment of hair loss. Propecia (finasteride) should NOT be taken by woman or children for any reason.

Learn about all your hair loss treatment options.
 

Some day, perhaps in the distant future, baldness may become a curable aliment. Scientists are currently researching gene therapies to alter a person's genetic vulnerability to hair loss. However, the actual implementation of such hair loss treatments may be decades away.

In the near future, drug treatments which inhibit the balding process seem more promising. The hair loss drug Propecia (finasteride) has been proven successful in slowing and/or stopping hair loss by blocking the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT) in the scalp.

Another promising drug that inhibits the development of hair loss causing DHT hormones is Dutasteride.

Like Propecia, it also inhibits the creation of DHT. And based on preliminary clinical studies, dutasteride promises to be even more successful than Propecia in inhibiting the production of DHT.

In addition, Dutasteride inhibits the activities of two types of 5-alpha-reductase enzymes. In contrast, Propecia (Finasteride) only inhibits one type. Dutasteride has been shown to decrease levels of DHT by 90% after only two weeks, making it a more powerful and faster-acting weapon against hair loss than Propecia (Finasteride).

Dutasteride is not yet FDA approved for the treatment of hair loss. However, it is being marketed as Avodart by GlaxoSmithKline as a hair loss treatment. Some hair restoration physicians also prescribe it for the treatment of hair loss. Like Propecia, Avodart is not safe for women and children.

In time, perhaps even more effective hair loss drugs will be developed to inhibit the hair loss process.

Future Hair Transplants - an endless supply of bald resistant donor hairs?

The amount of hair you can transplant is ultimately limited by the amount of hair follicles you can safely relocate from the bald resistant donor area at the back and sides of your head.

Some day it may be possible for physicians to create multiple hair follicles from one original follicle. This process typically called "hair cloning" or more correctly "Hair Multiplication" is currently being investigated by several research scientists and hair restoration physicians.

If and when this process is successfully developed patients would no longer be limited by the finite amount of bald resistant hairs that can be relocated from their donor area. Hair multiplication would result in a virtually limitless supply of hair available for hair transplantation.

This would be especially good news for men or women with extensive baldness and a very limited supply of donor hair. Even those with extensive baldness would theoretically be able achieve thick full heads of hair.

However, experts believe that we are at least ten years away from hair multiplication being available, if even then.

For most men and women, hair loss can be effectively halted or even reversed with current hair loss treatments. But the future holds the promise of even more effective treatments and perhaps some day even a "hair loss cure".